#118 It’s a Good Time to Visit Istanbul
Discover a city of many pleasures.
The Blue Mosque at Sundown photo by Joan Naidorf
As part of a March 2024 pre-river-cruise extension, I enjoyed an eggplant and Doner-kebab-filled three days in Istanbul. The sight-seeing was great as well. We found a nonstop flight to Istanbul that had us board one evening in Virginia, and landing in the morning at the huge airport north of the city.
We arranged transfer from the airport to our hotel located in the heart of the neighborhood of Sultanahmet. This is a great location in the historic and walkable area of this massive city. When we rested and got around to taking a walk to orient ourselves, we were steps away from the Topkapi Palace, Hagia Sophia, and The Blue Mosque. More on those treasures to follow.
The weather in late March was just warming us as we were welcomed by blooming flowers in the public gardens. The tulips, we were reminded by our guide, originated in Turkey, sorry Holland.
In the afternoon, we met the gentleman, Semet Ugur, who would guide us for the next two days in Istanbul. He was kind enough to walk us over to an adjacent neighborhood to find the restaurant we chose, Deraliye Terrace. Like many restaurants in this part of Istanbul, the enclosed rooftop offers a panoramic view of the mosques and palaces of the old city, framed by the blue waters of the straits and sea.
As we enjoyed a selection of the local mezze and a Turkish wine, magical twilight fell over the city landscape. The sunset brought the loud call to prayers and the festive lighting of Blue Mosque. A cheery Ramadan message was posted in lights across the sky. The domes and minarets of the Blue Mosque were dramatically up lit in the twilight.
Exploring starts at the Blue Mosque
On the next morning, after enjoying a classic Turkish breakfast in the hotel restaurant, we met our fellow travelers and set out to conquer the city. Our first stop was the massive Blue Mosque just a few blocks away from our hotel. We passed numerous sleeping dogs who are tagged and maintained by the city. These strays are well-fed and friendly.
The Blue Mosque is so named not just because of the blue domes, but because of the thousands of blue ceramic tiles that adorn the columns and walls of the cavernous space. Anyone looking for decorating inspiration for backsplashes or walls would do well to look here. We removed our shoes before entering and the ladies covered our heads.
The guide told the story of the dried ostrich eggs that decorate the light fixtures. Over 200 ostrich eggs hang among the light fixtures. The aroma is used to deter the spiders that would inevitably take over if they were allowed to live in the open space.
After touring the Blue Mosque, we walked across the square to the area of the Hippodrome. Two obelisks taken from Egypt decorate the huge space that was once used for Roman horse and chariot races. The “Serpent” column was cast to celebrate the victory of the Greeks over the Persians during the Persian Wars in the 5th century BC. Constantine ordered the column to be moved from the Temple of Apollo at Delphi and set in middle of the Hippodrome.
Egyptian Obelisk at the Hippodrome Raimond Klavins@raimondklavins
We had an obligatory stop to learn the methods and history of Turkish rug weaving. We also became well-acquainted with the art of the Turkish rug salesman. With the intention of buying two rugs, we had thousands to choose from. Narrowing down the choices were our only difficulty.
Then the group took the public tram to the Grand Bazaar. On the way, we stopped for the famous Doner kebob sold at many restaurant counters. Although it was Ramadan, many of the locals were enjoying their lunches right beside us.
The Grand Bazaar was quite a shopping scene yet I resisted the temptation of the thousands of vendors and souvenir shops. After a recent trip to the Ben Tanh market in Hanoi, Vietnam, the market experience felt a bit sanitized, much like an American shopping mall.
We trammed back to the area just across from the Hagia Sophia to the Basilica cisterns. People queue up around the block to enter this historic site but our guide allowed us to enter quickly. The huge underground chamber is supported by over 300 marble columns. The cistern provided a water filtration system for the Great Palace of Constantinople and other buildings after the Ottoman conquest in 1453 and into modern times.
Basilica Cistern photo by Raimond Klavins@raimondklavins
For dinner we stopped into a highly recommended fresh fish restaurant called Balikçi S. We tried two of the local fish grilled to perfection. A very talkative parrot serenaded us from the corner of the dining room. We did not enjoy the habits of the local smoking their cigarettes in the dining room between their courses. If there was a non-smoking area, we did not know to ask for it.
After another delicious Turkish breakfast featuring menemen, their version of scrambled eggs, we were ready to start exploring again. We took the very short walk around the corner to the grand Topkapi Palace. From the 1460s to 1856, it served as the administrative center of the Ottoman Empire, and was the main residence of its sultans. One could easily spend a whole day touring the palace, museum, and grounds but we were guided through the highlights.
Touring the Topkapi Palace
First stop, The Imperial Harem which (contained more than 400 rooms. The harem was home to the sultan's mother, the concubines, and wives of the sultan; and the rest of his family, including children; and their servants. Stunning porcelain tiles decorate the walls that visitors may tour.
The rest of the visit takes us through the collection of jewels, the armory, and the library. I found highlight of our tour to be the entry onto the expansive terrace, overlooking the Golden Horn, where the Bosphorus Strait meets the Marmara Sea. The views of the ferries and ship traffic across the shimmering waters were mesmerizing.
Next, we toured just a sampling of the jewels and armaments on display in the palace galleries. The library stands alone and features thousands of ancient texts. The walls are adorned with distinctive ceramic tiles that today’s homeowners would love to replicate if they could.
Golden Horse Armor at Topkapi Palace photo by Joan Naidorf
From the palace, we ferried over to the Asia side of Istanbul so we could have a look around the neighborhood of Kadikoy. Our guide pointed out many of the waterfront historical sites along the way. The Kadikoy waterfront is crowded with barking politicians, merchants, and food stalls. We stopped for lunch in one of the many restaurants serving traditional Turkish favorites.
After ferrying back to the European side of the city, we were able to slip into the iconic Hagia Sophia without the lengthy queue present in the morning. The Hagia Sophia Church was built in 537 AD, with minarets added in the 15th–16th centuries when it became a mosque. Many of the church-era mosaics were plastered over but some beauties remain for tourists to see. The building is functioning today as a Mosque with worship services throughout the day.
I am exhausted just recounting the tale of these jammed packed two days in Istanbul. Could independent travelers do it themselves? Yes, but not as seamlessly and efficiently. This is still a highly secular city with very hospitable people. It is safe to travel here. With planning or a skilled guide, travelers can delight in the delicious cuisine and the spectacular sights of cosmopolitan Istanbul.
