#120 Cruising the Lower Danube
Find a Stone-faced King, Fortresses, and more
King Decebalus Sculpture, Romania, photo by Joan Naidorf
Travelers often start river cruising in Europe along the scenic Danube River in Germany. At the end of March, we visited the less-traveled lower section of the Danube River. After a wonderful pre-cruise weekend in Istanbul, we take a short flight to Romania to meet our ship. In uncrowded settings, the journey of the Lower Danube lands holds a bounty of natural and man-made treasures.
We embarked onto the ship after a 1.5-hour drive from the Bucharest airport to the small town of Giurgiu, where the river cruise ship was docked. A quick bus tour en-route brought us by the highlights of Bucharest. The ship moves quickly on the first night, across the Danube River to the town of Rousse in Bulgaria. Our first selected day trip from the ship goes to the Ancient Capitol of Bulgaria, Veliko Tyrnnovo.
First, we stop in the very small village of Arbanassi. The very large and grand Konstantsalieva House from 300 years ago is maintained as a living museum of small-town life. It is presented as an example of Bulgarian National Revival Era architecture. A cute little souvenir shop sells local handicrafts and rose products of which the country of Bulgaria is a world leading producer.
Church Fresco, Arbanassi, Bulgaria, photo by Joan Naidorf
Next, we visit two small churches nearby that are the gems of this little excursion. The Church of Saint Demetrius is one of the oldest in the village. It was the central parochial church that survived the major earthquake in 1913. The church interior was painted with frescos between 1612 and 1794. We were treated to a short concert of acapella music in the elaborately decorated chapel. Their voices joined with the superb acoustics of the little chapel to create a sacred experience.
The Nativity Church is the oldest church in Arbanasi, dating back to the 1500’s. The church is divided into three parts: the naos (the men’s section), the narthex (the women’s section), and a gallery with a chapel dedicated to St. John the Baptist. The structure is quite low with an appearance from the outside of a stable. No pictures are permitted to help preserve the ancient and stunning frescoes.
Church Choir in Arbanassi, Bulgaria, photo by Joan Naidorf
After a nice lunch in the local restaurant, our group took the short ride to the city of Veliko Tyrnovo. This was the ancient Capitol of Bulgaria. Often referred to as the "City of the Tsars", Veliko Tyrnnovo is located on the Yantra River and is famously known as the historical capital of the Second Bulgarian Empire.
The centerpiece of the town is Tsarevets Castle, a partially reconstructed medieval fortress that was the center of the Second Bulgarian Empire. We walked the grounds but did not actually enter the castle or the associated Patriarchal Cathedral. With a 90-minute ride back to the cruise ship ahead of us, we put a wrap on a very enjoyable first day of touring.
Tsarevets Castle, Veliko Tyrnnovo, Bulgaria photo by Joan Naidorf
Next Stop on the Danube: Vidin
We sailed upstream and docked overnight in the little Bulgarian town of Vidin. Along the bank of the Danube River lies the well-preserved medieval Fortress of Vidin. Its moat and high position favored it as a fortress that was never overtaken. Now it stands for concerts, weddings, and visits by cruising tourists. Some museum exhibits are featured in the chamber along with ancient artifacts. One room is set up as a tiny chapel with ancient icons.
Vidin Fortress, Bulgaria, photo by Joan Naidorf
From the riverfront fortress, we walked a short distance to the restored Vidin Synagogue. In the neighborhood where a thriving Jewish community once lived, now stands this restored “museum” used for concerts and cultural events. A small exhibit documents the once large and prosperous community. No Jews currently live in the town or use the synagogue as a house of prayer or learning.
Across the street is a dilapidated mosque and the local church next door is still in fine condition. The guide refers to this area as the “zone of tolerance” which, I’m sorry, seems to come right out of an Orwellian novel. At one time, people of three faiths lived, prayed, and coexisted in this small Bulgarian town. Very few people live here now.
Restored Vidin Synagogue, Bulgaria, photo by Joan Naidorf
What was once a picturesque little city, has Soviet era apartment blocks and high rises cluttering the city square. Our sardonic guide, a former teacher named Anna, reports that the town contains half the population that it once had. The remnant of the city gate borders the wide-open public space which is mostly deserted. A few shops and cafes are open but the vibe is sleepy.
After dinner, the cruise line brought on a spirited group of teenagers from Vidin to play and dance to the local folk music. While a quartet played the music, another eight youngsters proudly entertained the group with dances from their homeland. We could not help but be thoroughly charmed.
Cruising through the Iron Gates
After leaving Vidin, our ship sailed northward overnight to the Iron Gates and through the locks of the hydroelectric plant. The passage through the locks was set to occur very early in the morning and there was no way that I was going to wake up to see it. This plant and the damming of the Lowe Danube River flooded several villages and displaced thousands of people.
I was sure to be present for the morning sail through area in which the Danube narrows as it winds through a series of steep gorges between the Carpathian and Balkan Mountains, forming a natural border between Serbia and Romania.
In many ways, the geology and the cruise ship scenery of the Iron Gates resembles the Three Rivers Gorge seen on the Yangtze River in China. That damn project in China wiped out far more villages and displaced more than a million villagers to unattractive high-rise buildings in the nearby city.
The man-made highlight of the Iron Gates passage in the gigantic face of ancient King Decebalus, the last king of Dacia who fought against the Roman emperors, carved into the mountainside. The largest rock sculpture in Europe was reportedly inspired by Mount Rushmore in America. The King is indeed an imposing sight. (picture above)
Golubac Fortress, Serbia, photo by Joan Naidorf
Our cruise northward into Serbia, brought us to partially restored Golubac Fortress, once an important part of the defense of the Danube. The country of Romania lies across the river. Ships dock right at the site of the fortress and tours are led by local guides in local folkloric costumes.
The site has a fascinating and complex history that we learned but forgot quickly. Restoration work undertaken in the last decade unearthed evidence of an early Roman and Byzantine settlement which predated the fortress. One site being restored in the buildings that the Ottomans later used as a hammam (bath.)
The Golubac Fortress was declared a Monument of Culture of Exceptional Importance in 1979, and it is protected by the Republic of Serbia. A multi-year reconstruction ended in 2019 and some archeological projects carry on. The fortress contains nine towers with some several open for touring and a small museum documenting the history. I consider this fortress to be one of the highlights of the Lower Danube cruise.
Every view of the fortressed perched high on the Danube bank is truly spectacular. I hated to sail away, but on we go.
The next stop and chapter will be Belgrade, the capital of Serbia.
